Our days off
Where we eat in Madeira
People ask us this every week, so here it is in writing. These are places we actually go to on our days off — not a ranking, just an honest shortlist from a kitchen in Caniço, with what we order at each one.
Munchies — Caniço
Order: Prego no bolo do caco, chips on the side
Five minutes from our kitchen and the one we send guests to when we're closed.
Avista — Funchal
Order: Tasting menu, sit outside at dusk
The room and the view do half the work; the kitchen does the rest.
Theo's — Funchal
Order: Whatever fish came in that morning
Proper cooking without the ceremony.
Il Basilico — Funchal seafront
Order: Pizza, walk the promenade after
Where we take the family when nobody can agree.
Câmara de Lobos tascas — Câmara de Lobos
Order: Lapas, milho frito, a poncha to finish
Go at lunch, not dinner, and follow the fishermen.
Porto Moniz — North coast
Order: Grilled limpets after a swim in the natural pools
Make a day of it — pools first, long lunch second.
How we choose
We look for three things: fish that came in that day, someone who cooks the Madeiran dishes properly, and a bill that matches the plate. If you want a wider view than one cook's opinion, the island guide at MadeiraInfo keeps a maintained list by area, and their Estrelícia Guide marks the kitchens worth planning an evening around.
And the dishes themselves
If you're new to Madeiran food, start with espetada, bolo do caco and espada com banana. We cook all three here in Caniço — and MadeiraInfo's espetada guide explains the laurel-skewer tradition behind it.